💚 Kiez Guides #3: What to do in Berlin Kreuzberg’s Wrangelkiez
Kreuzberg is a world in itself, but our lens focuses on Wrangelkiez (and surroundings), where creative souls mingle alongside grandmas sunbathing on benches in the afternoon sun.
If I'm honest, I never thought I'd end up living in Berlin when I first visited the city in March 2013, slowly walking through its icy, slippery streets. I remember another visit in the summer of 2015, having a beer with some Dutch friends at Tante Emma, gazing at the U-Bahn tracks. That picturesque scene made me sigh with a kind of present nostalgia—just being there, soaking up one of the most vibrant corners of the city, with the scent of Burgermeister drifting across the terrace. And if I'm really honest, I never imagined that exactly seven years later, I'd be living not only in Berlin but right around that very corner in Kreuzberg. Wild, right? Just the right amount of wild.
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As wild as this Kiez I now call home—a beautiful chaos of contrasts, smells, and sounds nestled between Görlitzer Park and Schlesisches Tor. When we open our windows, the aroma from the Turkish bakery downstairs wafts up to greet us, welcoming early risers in the morning and comforting night owls returning home in the darkness.
In my humble, still-somewhat-newbie opinion (two years and counting), Wrangelkiez paints the perfect picture of what Berlin truly is: a seamless blend of old and new. You'll find local shops that stood here long before the Wall came down, bakers with that tough Berliner edge who might scold you for taking too long to choose your bread but will remember your face and nod at you on the street. There are older women who've lived in these neighborhoods for over fifty years, still climbing the stairs to their fourth-floor alt-bau flats where low ceilings frame decades of stories.
Here, languages blend as naturally as the people—English, Spanish, Turkish, and Berliner slang float together in the air. Children reclaim the traffic-free streets as soon as spring arrives. Turkish gentlemen sip coffee outside the barber shop while exchanging neighborhood news. The creative souls—with their neon hair and bold outfits—wander through the Kiez searching for something, maybe themselves. And somehow, they fit perfectly alongside the grandmas sunbathing on benches in the afternoon sun. Everyone belongs. Everyone has their place.
Since I've fallen head over heels for this chaotic, charming corner of Berlin, consider this my love letter to Wrangelkiez (its extended version, including some places that are not technically in the kiez, but bordering it)—a neighborhood guide to the place I'm fortunate enough to call home.
Eat & Drink
Coffee & Pastries
Passenger or Baretto: I can never pick a favorite — I just bounce between the two. Baretto wins for focaccias (the “Rosi” is a must if you eat meat), and Passenger for the best coffee and unbeatable pains au chocolat. What I love most? Familiar faces and that cozy “at home” feeling in both when you enter and the owner greets you.
La Maison: Yes, it’s hyped — but also 100% worth it. Amazing bread, dreamy terrace, and the ultimate people-watching spot. I go for coffee and somehow leave with a rose and a vegan tapenade baguette. Is the perfect meeting point and you´ll never want to leave. Ah, don’t miss the pain suisse!
Atelier Dough: Hands down, best doughnuts in town — and the coffee’s right up there too. Perfect for a treat-to-go or when you need to impress guests with a fancy brunch sweet-box.
From lunch to dinner and brunching in between
Annelies: A monthly must to treat yourselves and meet with friends. Yes, there might be a queue — but it moves fast and it's always worth it. Get the Sausage, Egg & Cheese bun, the Buttermilk Pancakes, and those scrambled eggs on sourdough with smoked yolk + fennel kimchi. Unreal.
La Lupa: Cozy, no-fuss Roman pasta — cacio e pepe dreams come true. Approved by my Italian friends, so you know it’s the real deal.
Gotxa and Mariona: As a Spaniard, I’m picky — but these two are top. Gotxa nails the Sunday classics: paella, cocido, fideuà (but you have to order way in advance since it's always sold out super fast!). Mariona is your go-to for a more refined dinner, with creative dishes and always a lovely chat with Josep, the owner.
Ma-Makan: New Malaysian street food spot with a cute terrace at Lausitzer Platz. I keep craving their pilz congee — and it’s already made its way into my regular rotation.
Delicious drinks
Pavilion am Ufer: Just on the edge of Wrangelkiez maybe? But trust me — this spot feels like a hidden gem. Right by the water, with a cozy terrace, jazz or guitar in the background, and a perfect place for wine, Aperol, or a cold beer. It’s one of those spots where I stop, look around, and feel grateful to live here.
Spumante: Mediterranean vibes, but totally local. Great bubbles, delicious green olives, and a couple of casual snacks make it the perfect spot to start your evening. Their metal chairs terrace just sets the mood for a chilled-out hang.
Marabu and Sofia: These two bars have truly seen it all. Sofia, right at the start of Sorauer, has the best terrace on the street — tropical parasols and all. Marabu, on the corner of Oppelner facing Görlitzer Park, is one of those places you walk into and never want to leave. Both owners are usually around, and they’ve got the best stories — the kind you only collect after 20+ years behind the bar. Smoky vibes aside, the candlelight, wooden tables, stained paper walls, and worn-in couches make it the perfect spot to lose track of time with friends. And if you see my man in there… tell him it’s time to come home.
Activities & Culture
Thrift shops, market halls, fitness studios and other things in between
Markthalle Neun: Thursday nights here feel like a little festival — buzzing with street food, natural wine, and my go-tos: oysters and Okonomiyaki. On Saturdays, I’m all about the flowers, veggies, cheese, and a warm focaccia in hand.
If thrifting is a culture, I’m definitely in it — and Wsiura Lite is my spot. It’s super curated, sometimes pricey (because the quality’s great), but surprise sales make it feel like a vintage jackpot. Plus, it’s dangerously close to my front door.
Hallentrödelmarkt an der Arena: Rainy day plans? Arena Trödelmarkt has me covered — literally. 3,000m² of secondhand treasures, from retro lamps to funky bikes. It’s messy, nostalgic, and full of surprises — just how I like it.
For fitness, my favourite studio is Openstudios Kreuzberg. The vibe is laid-back but focused, and the instructors really know their stuff. Whether you're in the mood for a deep stretch or a killer full-body pilates workout. Plus, the cozy studio makes you feel like you’re part of a little community.
Club der Visionäre: Founded in the early 2000s by Gregor Kraemer, Club der Visionaire started with intimate private parties before becoming a hotspot for spontaneous jams. With one of the world’s smallest dance floors and its iconic canal-side terrace under a willow tree, it’s the perfect place for minimal techno and stripped-back beats. Open daily from May to September, it's been an institution for over two decades, offering daytime vibes that seamlessly turn into nighttime energy.
Day dog watching in Görlitzer Park: Sometimes, there's nothing better than simply grabbing a blanket, a book, and go dog watching in Görlitzer Park. A way to connect with the heart of Wrangelkiez and if you're lucky, cuddle the cutest pups around.
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P.S. Have you already read our Wedding Kiez Guide and Mitte Kiez Guide? If not, check it out!
About the Author
Marta is a photographer and marketing specialist working in fashion, with a serious soft spot for good visuals, great stories, and even better people & connections. Always looking for the details (and zooming in with her camera). Born in Madrid, based in Berlin, she splits her time between shooting, creating, planning, looking for the next workout, and hunting down the best coffees in town. She likes her work impactful, her clothes second hand, and her days just the right amount of unpredictable.
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